World Heritage Site Mathildenhöhe Darmstadt

Ernst Ludwig, the last Grand Duke of Hesse, founded it in 1899. Ernst’s vision was to create a cultural centre that would combine art and trade and promote the economy of the city. Famously his motto was: “My Hessian land shall flourish and in it, the art”. Ernest Ludwig himself worked also as an author and composer. In order to fulfil his vision, Ernst Ludwig brought together several artists, many of whom would go on to have very successful careers. The first exhibition opened on 15th of May in 1901, accompanied by a festival. It invoked interest far beyond Darmstadt, but it ultimately was a financial failure, which made several artists abandon the colony. The exhibit featured the artists’ homes, sculptures and studios. The colony’s forth and last exhibition took place in 1914. The start of the first World War marked the end of Ernst’s vision, and though some artists tried to keep it running, the Duke’s abdication in 1918 effectively put an end to it.

Thankfully, those buildings are still in great condition, thanks to the restorations over the years, and can be easily visited. When walking around the colony, there is a perfect blend of nature and art. The intricate buildings find themselves near and within a park and several trees, making the exploration even more fascinating. Every time I reached a spot in the map, I felt as if I found some hidden treasure. And maybe that was exactly what it was.

One of the most unique looking buildings is the wedding tower. It is one of the few structures that can be viewed from the inside. While I looked forward to seeing the interior and climbing the stairs to the top floor, in order to enjoy the entirety of the colony, I realized that the wedding tower is still very much functional. I witnessed four weddings (no funerals =) ) and after a long time of just hanging around, I had to go.

At the end of my visit, as I returned to Luisenplatz, it became clear how otherworldly this place actually is. In contrast to the modern or past city view, the colony was so colourful and bold in design, with buildings that looked like they belonged in a set of a fairy-tale and sculptures of figures with hidden messages, written in an abstract form of letters.

The artists’ colony in Mathildenhöhe may only have lasted for a small period of time in the history of Darmstadt, but it managed to become a safe space for new and revolutionary artists at the time, establishing itself as a center for the art nouveau movement. To this day, it is evident how much hard work and creativity was put into it.